Tracy Reese Returns to Detroit to Train Local Craftsmen and Produce For a Global Sustainable Footprint
SBN Detroit spoke with Tracy Reese, an American fashion designer who has been featured in fashion publications that include Vogue, Elle, Glamour, InStyle, and O, The Oprah Magazine; and whose creations have been worn by Michelle Obama, Sarah Jessica Parker, and Taylor Swift. In 2018, after 30 years in the industry, Reese moved back to her hometown of Detroit and in 2019 launched Hope for Flowers by Tracy Reese. The collection is designed and produced following three guiding principles of sustainability: the health of people, the planet, and equity in profit. Reese serves on the board of directors of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), where she has been a member since 1990. Reese also serves on the board of trustees of Nest Artisan Guild and the advisory council of the College for Creative Studies Fashion Accessories Design Program. She is also part of Turnaround Arts, a Kennedy Center program that transforms schools through the strategic use of arts. She recently served as board president of ISAIC, the Industrial Sewing and Innovation Center. She is working to build an artisan studio in Detroit creating economic opportunities for women in underserved communities. Q: Please share how Hope for Flowers and the sustainability aspect came about.A: In 2017, I had three labels and had been working in the industry for more than 30 years with my own brand, functioning as a typical manufacturing wholesaler. All of my production was overseas, and I sourced fabrics from all over the world. I started learning more about sustainability, and around that time, the CFDA + Lexus Fashion* Initiative that focuses on sustainability launched. I missed the deadline to apply in 2017 and was determined to apply the following year, so I did, and I was selected. It was an eye-opener. It was nine months of learning about everything from textiles to carbon footprint to human rights issues within the supply chain to waste in pattern making and more. At the end of the program, we were required to present a blueprint to be judged, and then to follow through with the blueprint. During this time, I started feeling a pull back toward Detroit and bought a house. I was trying to determine how I could be back in the city more. As I created this blueprint, I realized that Detroit was the perfect place to launch a brand. I started changing my perspective on how I was working. Running parallel to this was an impending departure of ways with my partners. There were things we didn’t see eye to eye on that were nonnegotiables for me. They wanted to go for volume, and I wanted to do something smaller and more meaningful and work on giving back to the community. So, I took the blueprint and headed to Detroit. Part of my blueprint included localized production, so training Detroiters to be part of this industry in a meaningful way was a natural next step. I set up a business model with a social and sustainability-focused mission. I worked with Shayla Johnson from Scarlet Crane Creations and interns from Cass Tech, my alma mater. We manufactured in Flint. This set the groundwork for Hope for Flowers. Q: Do you have a set of short-term and longer-term goals you are working toward as you grow Hope for Flowers? A: My short-term goal was and is to address the low-hanging fruit – textiles. Every product we work with falls into the mild zone. We are using bast fibers like linen – a crop that doesn’t require lots of water and doesn’t deplete the earth of nutrients. We also use organic cotton and responsibly forested wood byproduct fibers like Tencel and are experimenting with recycled wool and other fabrics. The idea is to create garments that stand the test of time yet biodegrade over the long haul. We look at biodegradable materials for buttons like natural shells or wood and try to use natural things found on the planet versus man-made We also try to design clothes that are flexible, meaning two different sizes can wear the same garment. This reduces overproduction My long-term goal is to produce in Detroit. To that end, we are training and working with local craftspeople and sewers to develop them to a stage of mastery that’s competitive with what we can import. We are launching an apprenticeship program, and our goal is to start running small-batch production in-house. Q: What impact do you think Hope for Flowers and the vendors and partners you work with are having? A: Each one of us is proving it’s possible, and I think that makes an impression on anyone considering taking steps toward sustainability. When those in doubt see a successful business model that’s working and financially viable, that’s impactful. The more people who choose to work this way, the easier and less expensive it becomes, and we can speak collectively. We need everybody to get on board, so it’s about setting aside the competitive mindset and working as a unified industry. Q: What drives your passion when it comes to the brand and its deep commitment to sustainability? A: I don’t see that it’s a choice really – it’s a necessity. We need to work in a way that’s less harmful to the planet and people. It’s also about holding ourselves to a higher standard, accepting the challenge and being energized by it. The idea of trying to solve this is exciting and I want to be up for the challenge, continue to learn, and continue to grow. Q: From your perspective – what is the role of businesses in Detroit in terms of sustainability? A: Each business has its own role to play. Getting started doesn’t have to be complicated. There are simple internal things that – when built into the company philosophy – begin to embed new habits and practices in the employees. We started composting a few months ago, and we are all working on developing new habits. Understanding
Dr. E’Lois Thomas, Working to Impact Lives that Have Been Underserved With Energy Solutions
SBN Detroit interviews Dr. E’Lois Thomas, President of SEEL LLC (Solutions for Energy Efficient Logistics), a nationally certified MBE energy program implementation company that serves major utilities throughout the Midwest, South, and Northeast with expansion plans. Here, Thomas shares her thoughts on the correlation between energy resource development and expanding opportunities for disadvantaged minorities. Her leadership has helped SEEL to become one of the largest African American-owned implementation contractors working toward growth in sustainability, energy justice, and equality for all. Thomas is vice chair of the Midwest Energy Efficiency Alliance board, treasurer with Advancing Women in Energy, a member of the American Association of Blacks in Energy board, and a mentor for the Council of Women in Energy and Environmental Leadership. She is a big advocate of youth advancement and volunteers as a board member for RESULTS Mentoring, Detroit Police Athletic League (PAL), and Franklin Wright Settlements. Q: Can you tell me briefly about what work you are doing exactly with SEEL? A: I’ve been with SEEL for 11 years now and with the parent company for more than 20 years, and as president, I guide and oversee all aspects of the company’s operations and growth. Since joining the company, I have worked toward the company’s growth in an industry that is committed to combat the climate crisis. We’ve had to navigate an industry that is rapidly changing from gas and fossil fuels to electrification, renewable, and clean energy. Also, as a leading minority-owned disabled-veteran-owned company, energy access and equity are important to us. We’re intentional about including minorities and underrepresented groups in the conversation. Q: You are involved with the growth trajectory of SEEL – as such what is your vision for the future? A: We’ve been involved in the energy industry since the beginning of broad energy efficiency programs being implemented in communities. The goal then was to reduce the carbon footprint by educating utility customers about energy efficiency and retrofit their homes with energy efficiency products and services. Fast forward to today, the industry is rapidly adopting renewable and clean energy intending to become carbon neutral in the next 25 – 30 years. This provides a great opportunity to grow the company in diverse ways. In addition to offering services related to renewable and clean energy, services like weatherization, building performance, and workforce development all provide rewarding opportunities right now. Q: How will you reach these goals/this vision? A: By continuing to train the workforce of tomorrow, while making an impact on the quality of life of our current employees and the communities we serve. Training is critical, whether it’s training for skilled trades, continuous improvement, building science, energy justice, HVAC, solar, or the training of being an energy-efficiency professional with key attributes like customer service, etc. SEEL is committed to this education. Q: What are some examples of what some local programs SEEL has implemented? A: We are training up our team in renewable energy options like solar and completing pilot projects for community-based organizations and local churches. We are speaking in the community to ensure that electric vehicles include diverse communities by petitioning for inclusion and more charging stations in urban areas. We are collaborating with Detroit 2030 District which continues great work to reduce the environmental impact of buildings and operating costs for building owners/managers in Detroit. In Detroit, we were the first minority-owned corporation to join DTE’s MIGreenPower 100% clean energy at its headquarters. DTE Energy’s MIGreenPower program is among the top three voluntary renewable energy programs in the United States. Notably, MIGreenPower offers simple and affordable renewable energy programs to eligible electric customers, thereby supporting the company’s wind and solar projects. In addition, we are currently reviewing our fleet for fleet emissions reductions with a plan in place to transfer all assets by the end of 2023 to efficiency grade to reduce our carbon footprint. In the state, we also collaborate with Consumers Energy toward their clean energy goals by managing programs with their Clean Energy Plan poised to meet Michigan’s energy needs and to continue the journey to net-zero carbon emissions by 2040, and we implement the entire energy efficiency portfolio for the Upper Peninsula Power Co. (UPPCO), powering through together in one of the most rural, weather-challenged areas in America, and for Indiana Michigan Power as well. Q: What drives your passion? A: I know first-hand the disparities that exist in energy burden. I grew up on the east side of Detroit and graduated from Pershing High School in the Detroit Public Schools Community District. As a young African American student, I always aspired to help others, so what fuels me today is that every customer deserves a path to energy justice, and I have a quest to ensure that this path occurs for everyone, independent of their financial, social or economic status. Not only is energy equity a passion of mine personally and professionally with SEEL, but there is such an opportunity for our industry to impact lives and communities while reaching those that have been underserved for too long. Simply put, access to clean air is a human right, yet so many of us don’t have it. Change is overdue, so the priority is critical now. Q: Outside of SEEL you are involved in many organizations. One is the American Association of Blacks in Energy board. From your perspective, what is the correlation between energy resource development, economic growth, and minorities? A: The correlation between energy resource development, economic growth, and minorities has clearly shown a gap in the representation of minorities that organizations like AABE work to resolve. AABE is a resource for providing information and educating energy consumers from all sectors of society, with emphasis on marginalized communities ensuring that the public and private sectors are responsive to the problems, goals, and aspirations of African Americans. AABE recognizes that access to reliable and affordable energy is essential to everyone so from an inclusion standpoint, we make sure that African Americans are represented in the conversations politically, socially,
Gulay Serhatkulu, Setting the Right Priorities for a Climate Neutral and Circular Future
SBN Detroit interviews Dr. Gulay Serhatkulu, BASF Senior Vice President of Performance Materials North America. This business encompasses the entire materials know-how of BASF regarding innovative, customized plastics under one roof and is globally active in four major industry sectors – transportation, construction, industrial applications, and consumer goods. Serhatkulu joined BASF in 2006 as a technical service representative. She has held a variety of roles with increasing responsibility within BASF including product management, marketing, sales, strategy, and most recently procurement. Before BASF, she earned two postdoctoral appointments at the University of Nottingham, UK, and Wayne State University, respectively. Serhatkulu shares with us some insights on the projects, goals, and challenges she leads every day. Q: What is involved in your role in leading the sustainability team at BASF in the North American region? A: Plastics do have proven benefits during their use phase – for example, preservation of food loss, lightweight construction of vehicles, and building insulation. Plastic waste, however, and in particular plastic waste in the context of marine littering, is perceived as a major global challenge. There is also increasing regulatory pressure regarding recycling quota and recyclability on the one hand and strong commitments of our customers towards increasing the share of recycled material in their offerings on the other hand. Solving these challenges requires innovation and joint efforts globally across the value chain. A team across BASF has taken up this challenge and developed the ChemCycling™ project which focuses specifically on transforming plastic waste into a raw material using pyrolysis, a thermochemical process. The raw material can be fed into the existing assets to create new chemical products with excellent product performance based on recycled plastic waste. Besides ChemCycling, BASF offers other mass-balanced chemical or advanced recycling solutions based on different post-consumer and post-industrial feedstocks. In this case, the recycled feedstock is not a pyrolysis oil and is introduced as an intermediate during the manufacturing process and not at the very beginning as is the case of pyrolysis oil. Chemical recycling represents an exciting business opportunity for us and our customers, as the resulting products are of equal quality to the products derived from fossil feedstock. Nevertheless, many technical, economic, and regulatory questions have to be answered but we are eager to work on it and optimistic that we can cope with all challenges. Q: What are you currently working on in terms of sustainability for BASF? A: One great example is the BASF and Steelcase collaboration on the brand’s new Flex Perch Stool, which has sustainability and circularity at the forefront of its design. This is the first furniture product for Steelcase that uses plastics derived from a chemical or advanced recycling process. The stool is made with BASF’s Ultramid® B3EG6 Ccycled™, an injection moldable polyamide (nylon) 6 that utilizes material from a waste stream generated during electronics production and is a one-for-one replacement for the 100% fossil-derived plastics. I cannot stress enough the importance of value chain partnership to achieve these types of major breakthroughs. From a lightweight perspective, I can also point to a collaboration with Toyota on their Sienna. We also work with footwear companies to provide plastic and foam materials that have sustainability benefits such as being bio-based and recyclable. The new Sienna generation first-of-its-kind third-row free-standing seat backs. We also have efforts for Climate protection. Climate change and global warming are among the most pressing challenges of our time. On our journey toward climate neutrality, we have set ourselves ambitious goals and are striving worldwide to achieve net-zero CO2 emissions by 2050. At the heart of the long-term transition toward net-zero CO2 emissions by 2050 is the use of new technologies, which will replace fossil fuels such as natural gas with electricity from renewable sources. Additionally, we engage our suppliers in our ambition to serve our customers with the lowest carbon footprint materials possible. In our Supplier CO2 Management Program, we first aim to achieve transparency on the product-related CO2 emissions of our purchased raw materials. In this phase, we offer our support and share our knowledge on Product Carbon Footprint valuation methodologies and tools with our suppliers. Q: What are your longer-term goals there? A: We want to live up to our purpose: We create chemistry for a sustainable future. We are only successful if our products, solutions, and technologies add value to society. Therefore, we want to make a positive impact on society and safeguard our planet. To drive the sustainability transformation, we focus on three key topics: Climate change, Circular Economy, and a safe and sustainable portfolio. We are striving worldwide to achieve net-zero CO2 emissions by 2050. Q: What are the challenges you face? A: I see two main challenges. First, new technologies like electrically heated crackers, electric steam generation, carbon capture, and storage technologies need to be developed to achieve our targets. Some of these will take time to develop and they will first need to be piloted before being scaled up. Second, we need a supportive and enabling regulatory framework if the transformation is to succeed. Q: From your perspective, what role does BASF as a business play in terms of sustainability for the surrounding community? A: We measure the overall impact of economic, environmental, and social aspects of our business activities with our Value to Society methodology. We take sustainable use of water and preserving biodiversity seriously. Our global target is to implement sustainable water management at all production sites in water stress areas and our connected sites by 2030. We periodically investigate our production sites around the world to revise which are located near internationally protected areas. We connect with external stakeholders and networks to discuss our sustainability strategy. One local example is Fighting Island. Owned by BASF, Fighting Island is a 1,500-acre island on the Canadian side of the Detroit River in LaSalle, Ontario. The island was historically used for storage of lime tailings, a byproduct of soda ash production, in settling beds. Since closing the settling beds in 1982, BASF’s efforts have led to native revegetation and reforestation to help prevent erosion, reduce dust, increase wildlife habitat, control runoff, and enhance
Kerry C. Duggan Works With Game-Changing Sustainability Businesses in Detroit
SBND interviews Kerry C. Duggan,national political advisor and visionary climatech executive and former Obama White House official. Founder and CEO of SustainabiliD in Detroit, and recently named the founding director of the University of Michigan’s SEAS Sustainability Clinic, Duggan shares her thoughts on a local level, highlighting key women and businesses who are making an impact and offering advice on approaching sustainability. Duggan is a board director of Perma-Fix (NASDAQ: PESI) and a senior advisor at RockCreek. She also sits on several corporate advisory boards, including Our Next Energy (ONE), Lux-Wall, Aclima, Walker-Miller, Arctaris Impact Investors, BlueConduit, and Commonweal Ventures. She is a senior fellow at the Federation of American Scientists and a member of the International Women’s Forum. Duggan’s current public service includes serving as an appointee to the (U.S.) Secretary of Energy’s Advisory Board (SEAB) under Secretary Jennifer Granholm and to the State of Michigan’s Council on Climate Solutions under Gov. Gretchen Whitmer. Q: Kerry, please tell us about your current work. A: I started SustainabiliD five years ago. It is a woman-owned,service-disabled veteran-owned, Detroit-based diverse small business working with game-changers to equitably solve the climate crisis.So, I have no small mission statement. As such, I’ve spent the last five years working on climate solutions in two ways: On the institutional side, I’m working to help develop the business model around place-based work for larger organizations. I have been appointed as the founding director of UM’s SEAS sustainability clinic in Detroit, and we are currently focused on three goals: To seek equitable and just solutions to the city’s most pressing sustainability-related issues; to lower operating costs—particularly in energy management for city operations—while reducing carbon emissions; and to support the delivery of services directly to the city and, through partner programs, to improve residents’ quality of life. Second, I work with climate solution companies. These are the game-changers. For example, Our Next Energy (ONE) recently set a world record of EV miles traveled on a single charge: 752 miles, in December, in Michigan. This is a very big deal. I work to help these businesses navigate opportunities to scale with the speed that we all need to combat the climate crisis. Q: Your work is largely around energy, climate, and environment.Where does your passion in these areas come from? A: First, I’m a mom. Climate is the most urgent issue of our time, and I want to create a safer, more sustainable planet for the next generation. Second, I have always loved doing my work in Detroit. My ancestors immigrated to Detroit from Ireland, so from a generational perspective, I try to give back to the place that has given my family so much. In this way, I’m very grounded in Detroit. I was also blessed to spend many summers of my youth on the shores of the Great Lakes, home to 21% of the world’s fresh surface water. How lucky are we? I work to protect that and make it available for my kids. Lastly, I have a basketball background, and the skills I gleaned from playing high-level hoops have transferred to my work. I’ll give an example. There is a move in basketball called the ‘give-and-go move’ where you give the ball away, then cut to the net, and get the ball back to make the lay-up. In my work, I listen to the needs of leaders in communities, putting aside my point of view, because if I don’t listen to real and immediate needs, we are just talking past one another – and no one wins. I put the give-and-go into practice in this way a lot. Q: What is your vision behind SustainabiliD? A: I grew up in a suburb of Detroit. Kids twenty miles down the road living in the city of Detroit faced injustices that I did notand conversely did not have the opportunities I had. That’s been my charge: how can we change this and ensure the city is not only vibrant and safe but also offers equitable opportunities to everyone? Q: The SustainabiliD team is predominantly women. What are your thoughts on women as leaders in sustainability? A: I think if I created a pie chart of my calendar, we’d see that daily I’m mostly speaking with female leaders across the globe, who are mostly non-white. These are the voices that have been left furthest behind in every conversation to date on the planet. I know I don’t have all the answers, but I always try to listen to people of color, women, other minorities, and people with underrepresented identities on what their needs are and try to help them position themselves to win the future. That’s where I’ve chosen to spend my time. Q: Speaking of women, what Detroit female business leaders in the sustainability space can you point to who are making a difference? A: Carla Walker-Miller. I work with a variety of companies but one that is an absolute stand-out is Walker-Miller Energy Services. In addition to what they do, which is to help relieve folks of energy burden by doing energy retrofits, Carla is an equitable economic development leader and a woman of color. I admire her not only for her company’s work but for her leadership. She is a national figure living and working in Detroit making a great impact on equitable economic development. Her work constantly informs what I’m doing now. Carla Walker-Miller has hired Dr. Brandy Brown as Chief Innovation Officer for Walker-Miller. She is another amazing talent. Before joining Walker-Miller, Dr. Brown served as Climate & Energy Advisor within the Michigan Department of Environment, Great Lakes & Energy. She also serves as part of the Environmental Justice faculty for the University of Michigan’s School for Environment and Sustainability and as an appointee to Michigan’s National Resources Trust Fund Board. A native Detroiter, Dr. Jalonne L. White-Newsome was recently tapped to be the new White House Council on Environmental Quality’s Senior Director for Environmental Justice. She has tackled environmental challenges from a wide range
